f/w 09.10 milan: jil sander.

when i think of the future, i think of sleek "armour" in very neutral tones with flashes of color. although raf simons wasn't in that headspace for fall, the collection he presented for jil sander was just that. it started simply enough, with simple coats, seamed shift dresses, high waist pencil skirts, and slim pants--all in classic colors (camel, black, navy, cream, grey) worn with pointy kitten heels.



then simons started exploring with seaming and subtle volume, like coccoon sleeve jackets, and by adding slivers of color, like an orange lining for an a-line skirt, or a curved waist in caution yellow. it was elegant but also sensual--armour-like, in that you aren't showing alot of skin, but still a reminder that "i'm a woman." it's exactly what you want to wear in the future. or next fall.

pics from catwalking

the holy grail.

carine roitfeld is one of those women who has "it." and to top it all off, she's very sweet. i saw her for the third time last week after the narciso rodriguez show, walking around by herself in the tents. i don't know why it took me so long to work up the nerve, but i asked if i could take a photo of her and she replied in her lovely french-anglaise, "but of course!"



as i started snapping and chatting, mario testino, who was standing nearby, starting telling her to work it. which of course she did. after i took a few shots (and thanked her and asked what other shows she was seeing), a group of professional photographers asked me who that was. after i wiped the surprise from my face, i told them who it was. and they started snapping away.

my own pics

they all adore couture.

at last night's oscar ceremony, there was one trend that seemed to be more interesting than any of the others, and that was the reemergence of couture. just about every major presenter and nominee was wearing a one-of-a-kind piece, and in the age of "recession" and "downsizing," it was nice to see the stars going doing all out glamour. here are my favorites of the night.



best couture: marion cotillard in dior haute couture
as the face of the lady dior handbag, it was expected that cotillard would wear dior, but she really shined in this black and blue belted ballgown which didn't stray too far from the runway version. sarah jessica parker, also in dior couture, was a close second.



best color: amy adams in carolina herrera
adams was my pick last year for best color, and she did it again this year, choosing a gorgeous red herrera with seaming detail and a beautiful chiffon drape.



best pastel: natalie portman in rodarte
portman usually choses neutrals on the red carpet, but her pink rodarte was unexpected and very fresh. i loved her simple pulled back hair and understated jewelry mixed with her dark nails.




best in white (or silver): marisa tomei in atelier versace
this versace had it all--amazing detailing, a long theatrical train, a soft metallic color, and simple hair/makeup/accessories that let the dress be the main focus.



best black: robin wright penn in monique lhuillier
she may not have been thanked in her husband's oscar speech, but robin wright penn is definitely deserving of praise for her stunning gown, which showed off her legs and back to great effect.

so who didn't look so hot? beyonce for starters, who looked like she was wearing wallpaper. jessica biel has a smokin' hot body, but in her strangely draped prada, you were hard pressed to see any of it. she would have looked great in one of marchesa's mermaid shapes or in another atelier versace. some were just boring, like jennifer aniston (does she wear any other colors besides nude/gold or black?), angelina jolie (ditto, but i loved her unique jewelry), and nicole kidman (normally very inventive in her choices, has been stuck in l'wren scott hell). miley cyrus looked too old, and i was just plain disappointed in kate winslet (and stefano pilati). so who were your picks for best and worst dressed?

pics from celebutopia, people.com and style.com

f/w 09.10 new york: the old guard.

the last few days of fashion week are usually reserved for the pantheon of designers, who took each took on fall in new, yet familiar ways.



tommy hilfiger called his collection "quintessentially fifth avenue," and it's easy to see why. the street, which stretches from hipster to old money, was represented in all forms. for the uptown girls, there were covered button trenches, camel peacoats, bubble hem sweaterdresses, side drape shifts, and long jersey gowns. for the downtown hipsters, there was worn denim, skinny ankle pants, and cocktail dresses in pink neon or liquid satin. for a collection that will retail until $400, it hit all the right notes and will satisfy a girl from anywhere.


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isaac mizrahi is in his element, with the 80s staging a comeback and color to be found (almost) everywhere. with a show named "smile," it was probably hard not to while seeing this collection come down the runway. make no mistake, there was alot going on (shiny raw silk, plaid, furn, glitter), but i loved the colorblock dresses, tonal woven sweaters, high waist plaid pants, and the gorgeous section of gowns.



at calvin klein, francisco costa went back to the body as inspiration, presenting a show that was all about texture and paneling, like on a hemline or a coat. even knitwear got into the mix, with turtlenecks and dresses displaying different stitches in one piece, for an intricate and luxurious effect. the mainly monotonous palette of black and grey was livened up with a silver panné velvet and a burnt yellow that appeared two evening dresses, one in a reptile like texture and the other in bands of mesh and velvet. my favorite pieces were the laser cut gowns with the asymmetrical hemlines. like the entire collection, it was simple on the surface, but once you get closer, the details are amazing.

all pics from coutorture.com

f/w 09.10 new york: social intelligence.

for my last day of shows, i managed to hit both the uptown and downtown versions of new york life, with vastly varying results.

at michael kors, he was also feeling inspired by the 80s, as he served up shredded fur coats in neon yellow, hot pink, and orange (some with matching trapper hats). want something more neutral? kors had you covered in a tan and cream version, cinched at the waist and worn over a cashmere turtleneck dress. for kors, it was all about the mix of more crazy brights with more wearable neutrals, with the latter much more successful. the tailoring on the cutaway jackets, slim pleated high waist trousers, and herringbone crumbcatcher dress was more interesting that most of the neon (except for a few neon cocktail dresses).



after seeing images of their pre-fall collection, i was quite optimistic that jack mccollough and lazaro hernandez of proenza schouler were going to present a stellar collection for fall, and after going to the show last night, they didn't disappoint. the collection was full of completely wearable looks of cool clothes that cool girls (myself included) want to wear. the beginning section was heavy on outerwear, like cocoon sleeve double breasted coats and fur trimmed wool bombers, along with other cold weather wear (lurex bouclé pullovers, tweed bermuda shorts, scallop hem schoolgirl skirts, cable knit tulip hem dresses). pants were slim but slouchy, while tops were fitted and sleek (like a satin zip neck mock turtleneck with pleats and seaming to accentuate the body). the standouts were the dresses, which ranged from textured silk to velvet burnout with mesh panels.

it seemed like my time in nyc was a blur, but a good one as i can't wait to come back for the spring 2010 shows in september. i'm also anxious to see the remaining collections, like ralph lauren, calvin klein, tommy hilfiger and isaac mizrahi and to what london, milan and paris have in store. will the big 80s trend continue? will designers abroad embrace new trends? only time will tell...

all pics from coutorture

f/w 09.10 new york: hot fuzz.

kate and laura mulleavy of rodarte have a wonderful way of being true to themselves while also expanding the vocabulary of the house. for fall, the knotted and tattered sweaters were back, but there was also crinkled leather that looked almost marbled, papier mache mixed with transparent "plastics" and seemingly rough hewn stitched panels resembling body armour. and instead of studded platform sandals, in their place was lace up thigh high boots that added a "blade runner" effect to the whole thing.



derek lam's take on american sportswear got a little sexier this season, as he added fur to jackets and collars on coats, slim leather pants and draped silk skirts. i loved the mix of shine on daywear (like hammered sequin sleeves on a t-shirt dress, or a boxy wool popover top paired with a houndstooth beaded mini). the fabrics were lush suedes, silks, cashmere, and wool but in easy, elegant shapes that you'll reach for again and again. evening was pared down in terms of grandeur--no gowns, just gorgeously bias cut crepe or strapless silk cocktail dresses.



finally, i ended my day at the tents at narciso rodriguez. there was a group of nypd officers mingling about, and i thought for a second that i may have a first lady spotting. no, it was just kanye west and crew, who took their seats just before the lights came down. everyone was in for a treat. narciso was back to his close to the body silhouette that made him a hit in 2003. the first look was reminiscent of the coat ms. obama wore on inauguration weekend, but also of his opening exit from f/w 04.05. from there, it seemed to go in a good direction--monochromatic emsembles of suits, coats, and day dresses in white, black, camel, and eye-popping yellow. the camouflage bubble skirts and strange futuristic hats? not so much. but the scuba inspired pieces, like a sleek hooded top worn with a seamed clingy skirt, or a cropped top with built in thumbholes were my favorites, along with the coats and suits--always his strength. take away some of the strange styling (does anyone wear white tights after age 6?) and you'll find some classic narciso pieces.

tomorrow, a report from my final day in new york, which includes michael kors and proenza schouler...

rodarte images from coutorture; lam and rodriguez: nymag.com

f/w 09.10 new york: back to the future.

what a whirlwind of a day monday was! it started with the elegance and sophistication of carolina herrera and ended with the youthful exuberance of marc jacobs.

at herrera, there was less embroidery and more detailing (something i'm noticing more and more as the week goes on). she paired textured bronze skinny pants, two toned tapesty jackets, sharkskin tuxedos, high waist suede skirts, and hammered silk trumpet hem gowns. i especially loved the evening looks of long over long: a long suede belted "cardigan" over a long skirt or a lapis collarless blazer over a burnout velvet gown.



justin timberlake, trace ayala and the lindebergs were in an 80s state of mind at william rast, more specifically the rumble fish and thelma and louise era. denim, leather and lace (and studs and embroidery). it also had a whiff of desperately seeking susan thrown in for good measure (oversized white shirts with black beading, high waist denim pencil skirts). i'm not too sold on two toned jeans (remember those?) or black acid wash, but the strong shoulder tuxedo jackets were amazing. i wish they had expanded on that and now shown so much denim. a girl's gotta have something else to wear besides jeans.



and if you're looking for something to wear to lighten your mood, look no further than marc jacobs, who said his collection was an ode to 80s new york nightlife, "when new yorkers could have fun...not like now." every model had her own look (hair/makeup) and one ensemble each. everything you can imagine was there: siouxsie sioux makeup, mohawks, neon colors, shoulder pads, high waist skinny pants, fishnet, tapestry, velvet, and lace. even though i was a child of the decade, and i remember wearing many of the styles the first time around, i saw lots of wearable pieces here. it was fun and crazy, which is exactly how i imagine marc wanted it to be.



tomorrow: reports from rodarte, marc by marc, and narciso...

herrera pics: style.com; all others: coutorture.com

f/w 09.10 new york: sunday.

sunday started off with a sophisticated dkny presentation, steeped in black, brown, and grey with shots of red and kelly green. it was a study in great american sportswear, in the same vein as michael kors, but injected with more youth. basics like matching houndstooth suits, sleek day dresses, pencil skirts and cropped flannel blazers were paired with long leather gloves, black tights, and polished lace up booties. even the evening wear was grown-up, with a pinstriped off the shoulder dress, deep v-neck knot waist jumpsuit, and a cropped fur bomber over jodhpurs.



at hervé léger, the clothes were as slick as the runway where three models took a tumble (the runway was made of polished wood). max azria expanded on the bandage dress vocabulary by adding texture: velvet, beading, ruching, and exotic leathers. everything was tight and short and sexy, but none of it was vulgar. i'm sure front row starlets january jones, lucy liu and joy bryant approved.



finally, the showstopping (literally) event of the day was diane von furstenberg. camera crews were filming the show, and other crews were filming the crews filming the show. the stars of the city, olivia palermo and whitney port were "working," (as in working the crowd), and the crowd (me included) was getting anxious with the whole thing, wondering when it was going to start. when it did, the clothes did not disappoint. calling her collection "nomad," dvf explained that what a girl needs now is clothes with some pizazz. she delivered, even as the styling was a bit all over the place. break apart the crazy layering and prints and there were some covetable pieces to be found, like print trenchcoats, sequin tunics, cozy knits, leather leggings, and colorblock day dresses. and as diana ross blasted from the speakers, miss ross herself jumped up and gave the other diane a hug as the show closed. a fitting end to a wild show.

stay tuned the rest of the week for reports from carolina herrera, william rast, marc/marc by marc, narciso, proenza, and more...


pics from coutorture

f/w 09.10 new york: saturday.

fashion week is always a blur--it's always interesting and full of surprises, and the first few days here have been no different. after arriving saturday morning (and missing lacoste), i arrived at the tents for adam, which was an explosion of color and life, something i wasn't expecting based on his last few fall shows. the early section was reminiscent of isaac mizrahi: big buffalo plaids, chunky and colorful fur jackets, silk print bustiers, pleated trousers, long cardigans and tulip skirts. the last section was filled with alot of satin and silks: drape neck tops, cutaway tanks, slouchy suits, boyfriend blazers, and easy shirtdresses. it was all extremely wearable and will probably be affordable (most adam pieces retail for under $500).



after that, it was over to the roseland ballroom for alexander wang. it was quite the scene as it was getting cold out and there was a line around the block to get in. that didn't seem to deter sarah jessica parker from making a rare appearance, sitting front row was anna wintour. inside, the music was high-octave 80s with matching clothes. wang didn't stray far from the downtown aesthetic he's been cultivating for the last few seasons, but this time around, it was much for "fashion" and much less wearable. i don't know about you, but my days of wearing bike shorts (even if they are stamped croc or black/white tweed a la chanel) are over. much more interesting were the cutout lbd's, lapel-less long blazers, oversized white shirts, fur sleeve coats, and leather bombers. apparently sjp liked what she saw, but i can't imagine her wearing any of it. my favorite part of the show? seeing tasha tilberg and natasa vojnovic. rock models for a rock n' roll show.

all pics from coutorture

f/w 09.10 new york: jason wu.

after you dress the first lady, what do you do for an encore? if you're jason wu, you use the new mood of optimism to create a collection fit for a queen (literally, as some of the models wore tiaras). 50s style full day skirts were paired with short sleeve sweaters, soft blouses, long tweed blazers, tiered dresses, ankle pants, and printed soft suits. for evening, like the dress he designed for the first lady, the silhouettes were flowy--gowns in tiered tulle, loose beaded tanks--but he also added some structural pieces, like belted ballgowns with bustier tops, or velvet skinny pants with waist length tapesty jackets. overall it was sophisticated while still being young and fresh, perfect for the first lady or any lady.



pics from coutorture

welcome to the big time.

the model lineup from f/w 07.08 narciso rodriguez

starting today (technically yesterday), the fall 2009/2010 collections will be presented, starting with new york city. stop by daily for continuing coverage of the shows and events and also check out the coverage on inside the tents and coutorture (both of which i'm a member). it's a most wonderful time of the year!

pic from firstview

f/w 09.10 new york: rachel roy.

if you had seen this collection without knowing who it was by, is the first thing that popped in your mind be "ysl?" it could be a good thing or a bad thing, considering that this is rachel roy's fall presentation. roy's pieces have always been ladylike, but usually more rooted in the fifties than the eighties, as they were this season. i loved the sharp silhouettes, wool beaded bustiers, asymmetrical hem day dresses, and skinny pants. the evening pieces were just as interesting: double layered gowns reminiscent of calvin, long beaded skirts, lace tees, and cutout lbd's paired with mesh gloves and leather peep toe booties.



anchoring the collection was the pared down palette (nude, grey, black, plus a pale lemon and blue and a single marble-y print). it was as roy said, "an army of elegant women." yes, it was sexy and powerful, but the hair and makeup didn't need to be so in your face. the clothes could speak for themselves.

pics from coutorture

a whole new world.

i was flipping through the march issue of lucky magazine, and i got only a few pages when i was stopped dead in my tracks by a liz claiborne ad. it was young and fresh, with teenagers to grandmothers wearing isaac's creations. along with a new ad campaign, the company has unveiled a new logo and a new website (complete with isaac's picks, online shopping, and video). the styles are totally cute and all about what liz stood for--affordable fashion for the working woman. even better--and not at all scary--is how isaac creates pieces that coordinate with each other (a patterned dress with matching patterned shoes and scarf, or a bold striped jacket with matching shift dress).



for the fall collection, there were three main collections inspired by 70s new england, 80s bright punk and 50s homemaker. there were buffalo check coordinates, belted puffer coats, toggle jackets, bold striped crewneck sweaters, velvet tunic dresses, and cropped denim pants. and it all retails for under $200, even the accessories (cute fur timmed booties, bright travel duffels, and logoed belts). you may miss him at target, but isaac is building a bigger, better empire at liz.

ad scan from bwgreyscale.com; runway pics from wwd

when in rome...

say what you will about madonna (played out, past her prime, homewrecker) but when she does a fashion editorial, she really brings it. teaming up with steven klein again (remember 2003 and 2006) for march's w magazine, she visits rio, where she meets some handsome men that will help her forget all about alex rodriguez and guy richie. it's one part sex book and one part the graduate and pretty hot any way you look at it.







pics from wmagazine.com

let's hear it for the boys.

mary kate and ashley olsen have slowly and steadily built up their contemporary and high fashion brands by keeping things small, collaborating with artists they admire, and controlling the image. now their latest endeavor is expanding the row to men. long rumoured to be in the works, wwd finally has a preview of the collection, which will be sold at barneys and bergdorf goodman among others. using the same template as the women's line--high end basics you can wear on their own or mixed with other designers--they worked in neutral colors and richer fabrics. on the surface, these probably look like what they are--basics--but like the women's line, the simplicity of the designs is also the strength. with valentine's day coming up, it's time to get the guy in your life his own row t-shirt (starting at $230) so he can stop borrowing yours.

pics from wwd

pre-fall 2009: prada.

miuccia prada is feeling dark and moody for prada, which is really when it's the most successful. she delved into the archives, taking some looks from f/w 06.07 and f/w 05.06, like fur sleeves, skinny suits, and ruched satin dresses. i've felt like the last few fall collections have been heavy on the gimmicks and not as strong in the silhouettes and ideas. even though this isn't exactly new, it is better. and i hope a variation of this appears in milan later this month.

pics from wwd

movin' on up.

as i'm preparing to hit nyc for fashion week comes news that img has worked out a new venue with the city of new york and it's lincoln center. more information is still to come about how the shows would be set up, or if there would be outdoor tents erected, but i am excited about the change in venue for the spring 2011 shows. maybe it's because when i'm in new york, i stay in walking distance from there. lincoln center is still not expected to be a long term solution for fashion week...hudson yards, which is currently under developement, is still the front runner.

pic from steppingouttours.com