small bites.

rhianna works it out at dsquared

i know i said new york was boring, but milan was worse. the only thing worth mentioning were jil sander and fendi, where karl lagerfeld continues to astound me and i wonder how he can design so many collections in a year, and i struggle to get dressed every morning.

speaking of dsquared, models, smoking on the runway? a bit ironic considering guy trebay's article yesterday about models and smoking.

according to wwd, jil sander is writing a memoir about her life and career. when it comes out, it will be like the devil wears prada, except the devil is prada (or at least her husband).

hot on the heels of his surprisingly strong collection for spring, tommy hilfiger opened a store today on bleeker street that's solely focused on womenswear. the store is the third in the u.s., and his first in nyc since 2001. wonder how marc jacobs feels about that...

pic from style.com


s/s 2008 milan: gucci.

why do people still believe in gucci? because i don't. ever since frida giannini took over from alessandra faccinetti (who will finally have her moment in the sun), gucci has gone to shit. giannini has blown through influences faster than a kimora lee simmons can drop a few million. is this stuff selling? does anyone wear this besides celebrites who probably are gifted it from their stylists?

that jacket on sasha was on tim gunn's guide to style last night in a longer version. you can get it at macy's! why pay $2000 for it? and the print dress on sheila marquez looks like kate moss for topshop. frida is also still pushing her slouchy crotch, skinny ankle pant which looks good on no one (not even anja) and i don't know where to begin on the ball gown.

if it doesn't look good on the models, chances are it won't look good on regular bodies.

pics from style.it


s/s 2008 milan: jil sander.

i'll admit i'm not much of a jil sander fan. even though it's always had a minimalist slant, it was a little too much so for my tastes...calvin klein and helmut lang had that something extra that sander didn't seem to. i've been taking notice of the collection since raf simons has been on board, and this spring collection is the most interesting to date.

the looks included sander's signature suit, this time with either a cute cropped bolero style jacket or a longer less rigid hip length jacket, both worn with skinny pants, flowy palazzo pants, t-shirt minidresses, semisheer blouses, loose chiffon "trenches," and gorgeous draped dresses with floaty backs. Navy, white, black were punched up with shots of pink, peach, orange, and magenta.

my favorite pieces were the laser cut, layered chiffon dresses and tops, some monochromatic, and others different complementary colors. all gorgeous and fresh. a collection i can't wait to see come spring. too bad the jil sander store is becoming a helmut lang.

pics from reuters, yahoo news and style.it

s/s 2008 milan: prada.

is the s/s collection from prada hot or not? i'm still undecided...

pics from yahoo news and style.it

the ruler's back.

i love gisele bundchen. ever since her contract with victoria's secret has ended, she's been doing more and more high fashion shoots, and this has to be the best of the best. shot by inez van lamsweerde and vinoodh matadin, gissy is back doing the fabulous poses she's known for. and as you can see by the big v in the corner, it's a foldout cover. can't wait to pick this one up!

pic from giselebundchen.com.br

this just in: lars nilsson to gianfranco ferré.

a nilsson for nina ricci dress, spring 2006

lars nilsson will be named successor to gianfranco ferré, who passed away in june. nilsson was most recently creative director at nina ricci and before that, was at bill blass. he will show his first mens collection in january and womenswear for f/w 08.09 in february.

yesterday the house presented the final ferré-designed collection, and it was not the homage to the famed designer everyone thought it would be.

pic from style.com


s/s 2008 milan: burberry prorsum.

for spring, burberry's christopher bailey softened up. slightly. but not much.

the designer said he had been listening to alot of deep purple and iron maiden and that's where the rock and roll came from: studded belts and trenchcoats, heavily worked weaved bags, road warrior sunglasses, chunky metal bracelets and black sandals worn with black ankle socks. but when you strip down all the hard edges, the collection is very feminine and has alot of frills.

the looks included ruched chiffon and organdy dresses in all types: tube, halter, shirtdress, ruffled bateau neck tops, peplum hem bustiers, overblown burberry plaid skirts and shift dresses, fringed pencil skirts, and signature trenchcoats with triple shoulder flanges and large gold buttons. the color story here was more muted: cream, white, tan, and pale grey.

the collection moved into a harder section, where the color shifted to black and charcoal, and more sophisticated tones like garnet, plum, navy, bronze, magenta and turquoise. pieces included pinwheel silk shift dresses, satin pencil skirts, ruffled cardigans, a side stitched coat, and a frilly strapless "prom dress."

i saw alot in this collection, from the frothyness of balenciaga's spring 2001 show, to tom ford's gucci collection (where bailey was an assistant). it defintely seemed a bit too much on the runway, but break it apart and there are some really pretty pieces here. i love the coats with the pyramid studs and the ruched pencil skirts. i'll be checking these out when the trunkshow comes to town.

pics from yahoo news and style.it


s/s 2008 nyc: the details.

some of my favorite details from the spring shows that wrapped up a week ago in new york. these are the pieces that will be on my shopping list or are just damn cool.

clockwise from top: rodarte continued love affair mixing soft and hard, showing their soft dresses with shoes by christian louboutin with spikes or zippers; marc jacobs "bag ladies" (and a peek of winona on vogue); narciso rodriguez showed his mens collection wearing nike waffle racers (which happens to be my favorite sneaker); a first look at phillip lim's collaboration with birkenstock, these cute gladiator style pony hair sandals; vera wang's big jewel freeform necklaces; michael kors' white croc clutch with chain carrying strap; marc by marc mixed up his 70s stewardess collection with lego belts and ponytail holders; also from marc by marc, vintage style monogram foldover clutches; proenza schouler's mixed materal peep toe pumps: studded croc, nubuck, and hemp.

pics from style.com and elle.com


small bites.

casey affleck looks amazing on the cover of another man's fall/winter issue. i love the type treatment and the black and white photography.


remember todd oldham? he's now the design director for old navy. in addition to working on the creative direction of the brand, he will design a line under the todd oldham name sold exclusively at old navy stores. in a quote, dawn robertson, old navy president said "Todd will partner with our EVP Product, Doug Howe, and the creative team to deliver a fashion viewpoint at value that will set Old Navy apart from its competitors." thank god!! old navy has turned into crap in recent years, copying everyone from mike&chris to anna sui. patrick robinson and now todd oldham...go gap!!

ungaro's designer peter dundas resigned from the house months ago, so who will succeed him? rumours are flying that its brit jonathan saunders, after ungaro owner asim abdullah was spotted in the front row at the designer's london show. the house has admitted to contacting former chloé designer phoebe philo about the creative director position.

one designer not leaving anytime soon is stefano pilati, who signed a multiyear deal to remain at ysl. his name was recently batted around as a replacement for valentino, who announced his retirement a few weeks ago.


the big day is here.

the barneys in san francisco is finally open!

i stopped by there today to check it out and get a feel for the merchandise and decor. first off, the store is absolutely gorgeous. the architecture was a joint effort between jeffrey hutchinson & associates and gensler, and the goal was to preserve the vintage aspects of the building (it was built in 1909, was later home to joseph magnin department store and later fao schwartz) with barneys touches.

artist john-paul philippe designed the bronze grilles on the outside of the building as well as the art that graces certain departments.

when i arrived at the store, simon doonan, barneys creative director was checking things out, making sure that all the displays, etc. were in tip top shape. i got to talk to him briefly about the store windows and san francisco fashion. he said the inspiration for the windows was really about introducing barneys to san francisco, so they used images from the barneys archives--past ads and campaign images along with the mannequins. he said that later this fall, the windows will have a green theme and the store has paired up with alice waters' edible garden project, where children will do drawings that will appear in the windows. when i asked simon what he thought about san francisco fashion, he said women here are much more sophisticated now, very worldly, and that this is the city of the counterculture..."if you care about what others think of your clothes, you're living in the wrong city." so true, simon.

the balenciaga mannequins

inside the store on the first floor, there's fine jewelry and tons of bags. lanvin, prada, givenchy and lesser seen brands like dries van noten, marni, and valextra (but no balenciaga...i was seriously bummed)! instead of an escalator, the store has a large grand staircase with the same bronze trimming as outside. the stairs lead to the mezzanine level, also known as shoe mecca. louboutin, prada, derek lam, blahnik, chloé, balenciaga, plus cheaper (ha!) brands like sigerson morrison, marc by marc and moschino cheap and chic. the third floor is reserved for designer collections, and i was happy to see lines like anne klein, rick owens, vionnet (barneys exclusives all), balenciaga, proenza schouler, and l'wren scott. they also had a small rack of clothes by the row, and i was pleasantly surprised by it. there was a great lightweight leather jacket with front draping, hip slung trousers, and a gorgeous tuxedo blazer (along with their signature t-shirts).

the co-op department

on the fourth floor is the co-op department. in the center are glass cases with jewelry and against the wall are handbags by marc by marc, phillip lim, bing bing, and sunglasses. designers include diane vonfurstenberg, vena cava, mayle, helmut lang, rag & bone, and more. there's a big section for theory, vince, and t-shirts by splendid, c&c, and james perse.

there's a huge denim section (with a cool mannequin dressed in a denim "ballgown") with designers like 18th amendment, earnest sewn, acne, and tsubi. even though they carry seven and citizens, the co-op department has limited edition washes and cuts that aren't available elsewhere. the basement level holds "the foundation" with beauty and skincare, those famous frédéric malle perfume chambers, more bags by marc jacobs and miu miu, sunglasses, and chelsea passage, the home (furnishings) section.

all of the salespeople were very friendly (asking me how i liked the store, did i need help, etc.) and they did a great job incorporating the existing architecture while still making the store fresh and hip.


filling the void.

liya, iman, bethann, and naomi in new york

this was one season i really wished i was in new york for the shows instead of san francsico because friday there was a great roundtable discussion called "the lack of black image in fashion today." the models leading the charge were liya kebede, naomi campbell (fresh off her comment to telegraph.co.uk where she critized uk vogue and is looking into starting her own modeling agency), iman, and bethann hardison. vogue's andré leon talley suggested that the cfda get involved and that black fashion leaders should meet with the organization to work on a solution.

what is the solution?

black women spend more than $20 billion a year on clothing alone according to targetmarketnews. i am one of those women who will gladly spend money on quality, and i have pieces in my closet from proenza schouler, narciso rodriguez, balenciaga, and prada along with stuff from h&m, forever 21, zara, and banana republic. when i'm flipping through the pages of vogue or bazaar, i don't see faces like myself staring back at me. and of the 101 shows on style.com, 31 used no black models at all. prada hasn't had a black model in their show for six years.

mia niaria and kinée diouf backstage at roberto cavalli

is the solution having more girls at agencies? well yes and no. having more models helps, but as kebede said "if the magazines and designers are not going to hire them, that's it at the end of the day." maybe it would help if current models and designers would speak up. back in the day, photographers, designers and even other models demanded that blacks be included in runway shows and photoshoots. hardison told a story about richard avedon refusing to work with bazaar after they declined to hire model china machado for a shoot, and campbell spoke of christy turlington & linda evangelista telling dolce & gabbana, "if you don't use naomi, you don't us." you don't have that anymore. the few black models there are out there (chanel iman, jaunel mckenzie) are just trying to get jobs themselves.

maybe the solution a boycott...it seems the only way to get through to magazines and designers is to stop the money train. and nothing gets panties in a bunch faster than a boycott. but many fashion brands and designers don't have to rely solely on money from black women...they've got money coming in from everyone else. so what is the answer? fashion seems to be the only industry where discrimination is rampant, but it's actually ok to do so. why is this? and why is no one doing anything about it?

images from getty and style.com

and now for something completely different.

i know i've been slow in posting my nyc fashion week wrapup (it's coming i promise!) but here's some more october cover news.

there were a few names swirling around as to who would get october's vogue, but the name that won was charlize theron. this is her second october cover and it's much duller than the first one. in the cover pic (done by mario testino as was her previous cover), she wears ralph lauren in an ed titled "home on the range" (that's really inventive, anna)! inside is a couture edit with raquel zimmerman, a studio ed with sasha pivovarova and caroline trentini (you think an issue would go by without caroline?), and the index section again features models, this time chanel iman, doutzen kroes, and others.

in a completely surprising move, mary-kate olsen graces the cover of bazaar. surprising to me because it was reported back in july that renee zellweger was in tow at the couture shows with eic glenda bailey and cd stephen gan and doing a shoot. i, for one, am thankful that it's not zellweger, who bores me to tears. m-k's cover isn't nearly as good as her sister's from 2005, but not bad. i still haven't heard a peep on the contents, but bazaar tends to have a better model mix than vogue, so yay for that.

katherine heigl, fresh off her emmy win sunday, is on the cover of instyle, and kiera knightley is on allure.


small bites.

i'll have a wrapup of my best and worst of new york fashion week later on, but a few interesting tidbits to tide you over...

marc was happy before the show...

marc jacobs is steaming mad and considering moving his marc jacobs show to london or paris next year. this after, first rumours circulated that he was at the mercer bar having a drink while hundreds of people were waiting for the marc jacobs show to start (he wasn't; he was at the studio, then ran back to the hotel to shower before the show), then iht's suzy menkes wrote a scathing review of the show claming marc is a thief, among other things.

rachel zoe is profiled in t: the new york times (the mens' issue comes out sunday) and she says she's more influential than vogue. i wonder what anna thinks of that, or if anna will stop featuring any actress represented by zoe.

chloé sevigny's collection for opening ceremony was shown to press and buyers this week...style.com has a great video from the presentation. they also have a video done by the row, styled by vanessa traina.


oscar madness.

no not de la renta. the little gold statuette. oscar winners are taking over the october magazines this year. first up on w, cate blanchett looks gorgeous wearing nothing but a white shirt, water and sand. i was a bit disappointed not to see her in couture (she wears it so well), but her last w cover was in 2001, so any cover is better than none. inside, they brought out the big guns as there are eds with kate (by mert and marcus), daria (by steven klein) and a bevy of beauties including hilary rhoda, liya kebede, missy rayder, sasha pivovarova, and natasha poly by david sims.

the cover of elle looks like what i wanted the september issue to be, with the most lovely shot of reese witherspoon i have seen in a long time. effortless hair, makeup and styling, and a lovely dress. inside there's a tribute to dior featuring victoria's secret angel izabel goulart, a feature on alber elbaz, and an ed on personal style, shot by alexei hay and featuring veronica webb, sienna and savannah miller, jennifer jason leigh and erin featherston. both issues are definitely worth picking up.

pic scanned by berlinrocks at tfs at justjared


s/s 2008 nyc: calvin klein.

after all that minimalism and focus on the body that francisco costa did for fall, it was great to see that he didn't abandon it for spring. he just softened up a bit and did it in the most amazing sherbet palette of sea green, cool grays, white, peach and nude.

the collection included soft tie waist jackets, slim pants, tailored jackets worn with high waist mid calf skirts, elbow sleeve turtleneck sweaters, loose polo shirts, slouchy trousers, long dusters, wide sleeve blouses, and windowpane check windbreakers. dresses came in every shape imaginable: long t-shirt, jersey tube, shiny crewneck, tone on tone dip dye sleeveless and flounce hem shifts.

for evening, the name of the game was sleek gowns with front seaming, silk cap sleeves, and the last four exits in string halters. i hadn't really loved many of costa's spring efforts, but this one was exquisite. even though it was very calvin, it was also new and very costa.

pics from yahoo and imaxtree

s/s 2008 nyc: marc by marc jacobs.

welcome aboard marc jacobs airlines! at least that's what i was thinking in viewing the marc by marc collection. it reminded me of flight attendant uniforms from pan am and others back in the 70s. the colors had a definite shag carpeting look to them (mustard, dark teal, olive, brown, navy, cream), and the shapes focuses on the waist.

the looks included collared popover tops, high waist sailor pants, checked and belted shirtdresses, slick raincoats, knit rompers with matching cardigans, geometric print skirts in silk and box pleated gabardine, cropped jacket pantsuits, and slim ribbed sweaters. polkadot dresses came in silk and in a cotton with metallic thread. the button up "stewardess" dresses and pantsuits had just the right amount of retro styling to not look too done.

the accessories also had cool pops of color. there were chain link flats, foldover purses, grandmother pocketbooks, rolling travel cases, and raffia and leather flight bags.

pics from yahoo


s/s 2008 nyc: marc jacobs.

everyone and their mother was at marc. victoria. heath. courtney. michelle (rodriguez). mischa. lady bunny. yes, lady bunny. and there was a fashion show. the scheduled time was 9pm est. word got out around 10 that the show would start at 11. and then it did. backwards. yes, marc came out on the runway and did his walk. then all the models. then the final exit, then the next to last, and so on. sound familiar? that's because viktor & rolf did it seasons ago. but this is marc, and marc put his own spin on it.

i could attempt to say what the theme was for this collection, but really, i have no clue. i saw some japanese influences, some 50s crazy housewife (the bouffants had strange masks, bicycle wheels, and a bitten apple), and some edward scissorhands. there were some things that made no sense and were downright unwearable (flower appliqué prom dress?) and some things that taken individually were very sharp. there were some lovely silk dresses with floral insets, long structured mid-calf skirts, silk shorts with an attached long skirt, beaded draped tops with rhinestone shoulder pins, and sweaterdresses with sheer stomach panels.

some of the eveningwear wasn't as theatrical as the big tulle promdresses. the floral embroidered dress on chanel iman (above left) is gorgeous, and there was also a lovely navy long floral gown with 3d petals, and a cool lace cape worn over a cream chiffon top, matching bedshorts, and pants.

a friend of mine that went to the show said the collection would make more sense after seeing the whole thing. so i guess i'll wait until marc puts the video up on his site before deciding if this collection is groundbreaking or ground round.

pics from getty

s/s 2008 nyc: oscar de la renta.

new season, new venue, new cfda womenswear of the year designer oscar de la renta really turned up the lusciousness with a beautiful collection of day dresses, sophisticated suiting and red carpet ready gowns. it was really all about the mix of the old and the new for the designer: he presented his show at an old church on park avenue (old church, new venue), and seated in the front row were victoria beckham, roger federer and anna wintour. instead of the traditional runway music, the band polyphonic spree played along while the girls walked along the half circle runway.

in terms of the clothing, it was really more of the same, but in a new location, it all somehow seemed fresher and newer, and even a bit better. there were ethnic print sundresses, crochet skirt suits, intricate beaded day coats, lantern sleeve blouses, slim ankle pants. and bright taffeta ruffle hem dresses.

for evening, gowns featured floral prints, tiered skirts, leaf layers, allover beading, off the shoulder tapestries, draped chiffon and a bold black and white number with large feathers attached to the cummerbund waist. in looking at this collection, it really reminded me how important the location is to the overall look. it's why marc jacobs has such elaborate sets season after season that really tie into what's coming down the runway. de la renta really tapped into that, and made the venue as special as the clothes.

small bites.

looks from carolina herrera s/s 08

is it me or are the shows a snorefest this season? you'd think with summer, you would see bright colors, happy models and interesting patterns. unless you went to tracy reese, diane von furstenberg, or carolina herrera, then you may have wondered if you were looking at prefall. speaking of herrera, she did her gorgeous modern take on ladies who lunch (tune in for oscar later today for the original version). one person who wasn't at herrera was the nytimes' cathy horyn, who was banned for her unfavorable review of her f/w 06 collection. ouch. way to hold a grunge carolina!


in other news, wwd reports that fashion week will remain at bryant park through the f/w 2010 shows. this gives the cfda more time to look for a new home although a longer term contract with the park is still a possibility.

fashionista says that models walking in marc jacobs tonight had to report for a rehearsal at midnight last night. wonder what he's got up his sleeve?


chanel iman backstage at jean paul gaultier couture

one model confirmed for marc is chanel iman, who's featured in today's l.a. times. any girl that loves roscoe's chicken & waffles, shopping on melrose and at forever 21 is a gem in my book.

stay tuned for marc tonight and more show coverage.

pics from yahoo and style.com


s/s 2008 nyc: narciso rodriguez.

narciso rodriguez's collections usually have a harder edge, which is something i love about them. he's all about the shape of a woman's body, using seaming and cutouts to accentuate our form. but for spring, he loosened up a bit with wispy dresses, slouchy pantsuits and swingy dresses in a more colorful palette.

he was all about dresses in different incarnations: sacks with paint splatters, layered chiffon in purple and black, nude with black strategic sprays, a crisp red wrap, a nude vine print trapeze tank, a white pocketed popover, and another white number with an empire waist and graduated tiered hem.

there were also stunning suiting and jackets, like a black coatdress with a purple elastic waist, and a black jacket with tie back worn with cropped loose pants. while i appreciate rodriguez delving into new territory, to me his bread and butter, and what makes him stand out from other designers is his tailoring and architectural designs. although this is a nice collection, it's not one of my favorites. that's not to say there weren't some looks i loved: the grey lanvin-esque shift dress with purple and black splatters and an elastic waist, a white rose embroidered minidress, and a black coat with the same rose embroidery were all gorgeous.

pics from yahoo

s/s 2008 nyc: 3.1 phillip lim.

the spring collection from phillip lim was a study in simplicity. the color story was black, khaki, navy and cream with lemon yellow, french blue and red/orange, and almost everything was sleek, simple and unadorned.

the looks included colorblock shift dresses, oversized black lapel jackets, patch pocket toppers, raw silk sleek miniskirts, shrunken cardigans, and floaty chiffon tops. for the pieces that did have embellishment, there was a macrame-fringed little black dress, a nude minidress with pearl embroidery, and some really cool freeform mesh overlayed on top of a khaki and black dress.

pics from yahoo


s/s 2008 nyc: ralph lauren.

this summer, it was all about the anniversaries of dior and valentino, with extravagant couture presentations and hip parties. not to be outdone, america's own version of fashion royalty ralph lauren is celebrating his 4oth this season with a collection preseted at the conservatory of flowers in central park. the inspiration: audrey hepburn at the horse races in my fair lady. some of the pieces were definitely a bit too costumey for real life, but individually there were some lovely separates and some knock-out gowns.

the black and white section featured peplum jackets, long tiered fishtail skirts, polkadot strapless dresses, jodhpur pants, swing trenches, sleek leggings, and spaghetti strap satin day dresses. color was then injected into the collection in a bit way, with yellow, hot pink, violet, and gorgeous florals taking over. the floral chiffon gows, in halter, v-neck, and off the shoulder necklines, are perfect for a day at the races.

some of the looks were too much (like the horse print satin jackets, catsuits, colorblock jockey jackets, but the chiffon puff sleeve blouses, bright satin trench, draped taffeta gowns, were spot on. ralph really shined in the evening looks, like a beautifully tailored white tuxedo, and a nude floor length beaded gown with cap sleeves.

pics from yahoo and getty


s/s 2008 nyc: proenza schouler.

for fall, jack and lazaro took a more grown up approach, which i loved and was one of my favorites of the season. after checking out nymag's harriet mays powell's preview of their spring line in progress, i was waiting with bated breath to see how this collection would turn out. i wasn't quite sure where it was going after the first few pics, but after seeing the entire collection, this feels more street, an earthy, natural street.

the collection included a tailored safari beginning, with gold button vests, wide a-line skirts, belted mandarin collar sleeveless jackets, and a saffon trench. from there, it moved into a black/white/khaki section. there were really intricate looking woven kimono-sleeve cinched jackets, wrap dresses, and skirts, an interesting striped double breasted pieced jacket, and hip length shirtdresses, worn with matching black/khaki long sleeve tees.

the last section features more glam pieces, like a brown silk zebra print dress, asymmetrical black and brick minidresses with tie waists, a gold paperbag waist skirt worn with a matching sequin shell, and the last exit, a shift dress with a sequin top and feather fringe pencil skirt.

for the first time, i didn't see any of ps's signature bustiers, and i was happy. i like this new direction they're moving in while stayting true to themselves. with this show and the last, they're really coming into their own and their partnership with the valentino group will help them get to the next level.

pics from elle